Here we have another restaurant post. But what else are you going to do when you have friends in town who want to sample some local cuisine? S and D arrived today, and we had decided that one evening we'd eat out, and one evening I'd cook. S expressed an interest in fish, so I outlined the options as I see them: Lapointe's in the Market, Whalesbone, and The Pelican Fishery and Grill. Sorry, to me The Fish Market isn't really a consideration. Each has their own strengths, and each has some drawbacks. Over time, I imagine that each will get their own instalment, but today, S chose The Pelican Fishery and Grill.
One of the things that draws me back to a restaurant is a certain thoughtfulness in the crafting of an entree. I want to be intrigued by the combinations. I don't want the only variation to be in the protein, with all entrees served with either fries or the same roasted potatoes and and tired medley of "seasonal" vegetables. Giving me a perfectly cooked protein with uninspired sides is not going get you on my A list. And I am happy to say that The Pelican scores well on thinking out their dishes and presenting a really stunning plate. However, reading the menu, you have no idea of the beauty that is about to land in front of you, and someone like me, who chooses a restaurant based on how much the menu intrigues, may simply pass up on a place like this.
I had first been there a number of years ago when a worked in the area. And I remembered it as a decent fish place, remarkable more for the fact that the Grill shared open space with the Fishery, which I considered somewhat of a risky proposition, since fishmongers typically have something of an aroma that not all find pleasant, than for the food. Flash forward to 2012. I no longer work nearby, and an out of town friend planning a trip to Ottawa mentions a groupon and asks me if I'd be willing to go back. Since I remembered as a place that serves a decent piece of fish, I agreed. The meal we had was a surprise. The food put in front of us was so much more than the menu led us to expect. Since then, I have been back several times.
Tonight, the winner of the prettiest dish was S.
Pan-roasted arctic char with barley, peas, asparagus, and roasted tomato in a spring vegetable nage. The picture does not do it justice. This dish was food magazine quality in appearance alone. S found it very satisfying, and confirmed the char was a delight (although S particularly loved the fresh peas).
D went with the more traditional fish and chips, opting for haddock in a panko breading rather than beer batter.
Having had this dish on a past lunch visit, I know it is very good. I tend to be so-so on fish and chips. I like the idea, but sometimes find it a little heavy, and for me, fries have to be really good to interest me. These are really good fries. I like the fact that they offer both the traditional beer batter for purists and a panko crust for those who want something a little lighter.
I was in the mood for something light, so I combined two appetizers. In addition to the soup of the day (today was cauliflower and cheddar), they always have a lobster bisque and a clam chowder. In fact, on the Fishery side, you can buy take home portions of both. I can make a damn fine chowder myself, so I usually go for the bisque, since it is not something that I have (yet) attempted. The bisque is rich and well seasoned, with a solid lobster taste and underlying hint of brandy typical of the dish. When you eat in the restaurant, the bisque also has chunks of lobster added to it, like succulent little treasures to seek and find.
My other appetizer was fish tacos, which are new to the menu. I am a fan of tacos in general, and for me, fish is the king of tacos. As far as I have noticed, they have only been semi-available on Ottawa menus for the last year or two. In my view, the key to a good fish taco is, first and foremost the fish. It can't be overcooked. I have had both pan fried fish tacos and the more traditional battered fish. Today's was battered, and I must say it ranked in the top two battered fish tacos I have had, though I continue to research this dish at every opportunity. The next most important thing is the balance of toppings. These came with pickled red onion, cilantro, crema, pico de gallo, and charred jalapeno pepper. The charred heat of the pepper against the cooling force of the crema and the fresh cilantro was effective. The tortilla was grilled, and was great while hot and fresh, but the appeal of the tortilla declined quickly as I went back and forth between the soup and the bites of taco.
The dessert menu is not extensive. Generally, a creme brulee of some sort and one other option. Today it was a moist chocolate cake with a Belgian chocolate drizzle that looked good when we saw it delivered to other tables. So we gave into temptation.
It was a good piece of cake. If I order dessert it is because I am taken in by something that looks beautiful, but more often than not, I am disappointed. Cake I usually find dry. This one was not, and the semi-sweet chocolate had a lovely texture and brought the sweetness down a couple of notches.
I like The Pelican. It meets at a good place on the creativity and quality vs price point spectrum. A couple of comments about atmosphere before I go.... It is has an industrial feel, with metallic, coppery tables and painted pipes at the ceiling. The decor includes suits of armour for fish. The place is small and busy. Servers are pleasant and friendly, but service is slow to very slow. As a side note, their price on oysters is the best I have encountered short of buying and shucking them myself.
Thanks to S and D for patiently letting me take pics of their food.
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