Molecular gastronomy. Modern food. Food where creative chefs play with techniques to create the unexpected. Different textures and shapes. Surprising combinations. Food that looks like one thing but tastes like another. Stunning presentations.
For the last few years, Atelier has been serving up this kind of food. It is my favourite special occasion place in Ottawa. When you arrive at the building, it is a little confusing. There is little to nothing commercial around it. There is also no helpful sign indicating that you've found the right place. The restaurant is small - it only seats around 20 people. There are reasons for this. Each dish is highly technical, with many different components. The small, intimate setting allows for careful, attentive (but not intrusive) service. The combined effect of the unsigned building and the limited seating creates a sense of exclusivity, like you're a part of a secret club that is in the know.
Atelier serves a 12 course prix fixe menu. There is no standard menu to order from. The diners do not choose what they eat - they are in the chef's hands. Atelier will accommodate allergies, dietary restrictions and strong food preferences by adapting the necessary dishes if you provide notice when making the reservation (and reservations are essential). The dishes have witty, whimsical names that always get a smile out of me. The menu card does not have descriptions of what you will be eating. Sometimes you can tell from the title of the dish what one of the components will be - for example, Feeling Crabby. Sometimes you cannot, as with A Relative Nature of Existence. The server explains each dish in detail when it is brought to you. For the adventurous, this lack of foreknowledge of what is come, the lack of control over what you'll be eating is exhilarating. For others, it can be stressful. This is not an inexpensive meal, so an open mind going in is a must.
And now, the food. There will be many pictures and few words.
The amuse:
On the right is a sphere of liquid with pop rocks on it. To the left, a little cornmeal cake and some ham.
Feeling Crabby:
A Relative Nature of Existence:
The same dish in two sizes. Scallops, radishes, creme fraiche and other goodies.
Denzel Squashington, a butternut squash soup, with sweetbreads and other delights in it. The bowl with the additions is brought to you, and then the soup poured in at the table.
Squid Pro Quo. Particularly interesting because of different squids used - one meaty chunk was Humboldt squid.
Dashi Through the Snow, another two-parter, where a dashi brother is poured over sablefish and accompaniments. For the dashi/sablefish combo, my favourite is still Blue Water Cafe in Vancouver.
Next, Carroty Chop, a rustic carrot salad served on a tree section. This was actually two servings, shared with my dining companion.
Porks and Quarks. A fun dish to look at and eat. Buried under that nesty looking thing (a spaetzle or sorts) was some very nice tenderloin.
Winner Winner, another multi-component meat dish.
Next, and interesting dish called Bisontennial. Served under a cloche to maintain the smoke, the cloche is lifted giving you a rush of fragrance and the most perfectly cooked bison. Something new for me in this dish was crispy, puffed tendon.
Moving into dessert, we have This is a Stick Up. A nitro-frozen lollipop-style dessert, served sticking out of a peculiar pine cone.
Fifty Shades of Brown. Peanut butter, chocolate, caramel, little dollops of fruity puree.
And finally, Clove Minded. A deconstructed apple pie/crumble of sorts.
I must say, I didn't post this nearly as soon as I should have - it was in November that I went. And now, reliving the evening through the pictures, I want to go again! Now, the menu would be mostly, if not completely changed, as we start to move in to spring. I have to set up another visit soon.
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