Hello foodies,
So, how is everyone doing with Thanksgiving leftovers? Tired of turkey yet? With one turkey-centric holiday down, another fast approaching, this is the time to talk about the choice of roast beast, because today, I am here to tell you, that where the beast in question is turkey, increasingly it is a dish I cannot stand in the least.
I am, perhaps, a exaggerating slightly when I say I can't stand turkey, as well as indulging in a love for Dr. Seuss, but I am serious when I say there are better options out there.
As a child, a roast turkey was magical. The excitement of family coming over, the smell in the house for hours. The beautiful golden product. I had a particular love for the crispy skin. I still enjoy the things that go along side turkey. Stuffing and cranberry sauce, potatoes and gravy. But the bird itself.... not so much. The beast is a victim of overbreeding for those plump, dry-as-dust white meat breasts. It is a catch 22 - the dark meat takes longer to cook, so the massive legs that support those breasts aren't done until the breast meat is overdone and can only be choked down with liberal saucing. People have developed methods to try counteract this - brining, deep frying, working butter under the skin of the breast, injecting the breast, etc. But the basic flaw remains - the meat itself is not very appetizing when compared to virtually any other meat.
Think about it - when was the last time you were really excited for roast turkey? Not any of the accoutrements, the meat itself, on the day it is cooked. I'd wager it has been a while. Now think about all the ways in which a roast can be better.
Smaller fowl such as chicken, capon or Cornish hen. If you're a traditionalist, this is a way to go. You can have all of the sides, but since they're not deformed to satisfy mass consumerism, a nicer meat. Having several holiday meals over the years with a friend's family, I can say those delightful Cornish hens were part of what started my holiday focus trending away from the Big Bird.
Roast duck - though smaller and more expensive than a turkey, when handled properly, you get moist dark meat (all dark meat), and luscious crispy skin. In addition to the traditional sides still working, you get a quantity of rendered duck fat to save and use elsewhere (liquid gold in culinary terms). Probably not the best option if you're feeding a large number of people, but for smaller gatherings, a duck is quite impressive. I like Ted Allen's slow roasted duck with cherry rosemary sauce.
Roast beef - my family, too, is slowly turning away from turkey. Last year, at Christmas, we had a roast beef, and it was delightful. Easier to cook evenly than a turkey, beef comes with its own heavenly sides, like Yorkshire pudding and horseradish.
Pork roast - the king of meats. A slow roasted pork shoulder is a bite of heaven, and it is one of the more economical ways to feed a larger number of people. There is a particular richness to a picnic shoulder that is found in few meats. The crackling on pork compares nicely to turkey skin, and cranberry sauce goes nicely with the meat as well.
Keeping in the pork line... Ham can also please, though it isn't my personal favourite.
The point is, bite for bite, all of these are more flavourful and pleasing than turkey. So when it is time to by the next beast for roasting, ask yourself are you buying turkey because you love turkey, or simply because it is habit and tradition?
The weather is finally cooling down and more cooking adventures are coming. I am planning to try my hand at sweetbreads within the next couple of weeks, and my polenta challenge awaits. Plus, the Ottawa Food and Wine show is coming up fast!
For updates and observations, follow me on twitter! @culinarykira
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